Lesson adapted by: Judy Decker
LESSON PLAN: 8^th Grade Sculpture                                         WEEK: 2 weeks

UNIT: Free form Sculpture- 20^th Century art

PROJECT: Wire and nylon stocking sculpture

Note: This lesson is adapted from one written by Sharon Kennedy. The idea was posted to the Getty ArtsEdTalk list and has been a favorite of many students all over the country.

See a new twist to this lesson: Picasso Faces by Bunki Kramer’s Students
Here is the lesson plan by Becky Thorton that started this sculpture phenomenon: http://www.princetonol.com/groups/iad/lessons/middle/middle23.html 
See some adaptations below

Objectives:

1. To introduce students to a free-form sculpture technique.
2. Students will produce a sculpture made from wire, pantyhose and plaster.
3. Use of design elements and principles in a non objective form
4. Awareness of 20^th century sculpture
5. Awareness of public art
6. Compare and contrast various forms of artistic expression associated with specific groups of people, geographic regions, or time periods.
7. Recognize how technical elements affect works of art.
8. Investigate ways artists get ideas.
9. Describe how artists use materials, tools, images, and ideas to create works of art.
10. Compare and discuss works of art based on similar sources of inspiration.
11. Perceive and describe differences in art works that have the same subject.

Materials:
Wire coat hanger (or 1/8” wire)
Block of wood, approx. 4x4x1
Knee high hose or 1 leg of pantyhose
Wire cutter or heavy pliers
Nail and hammer – or electric drill/ 1/8” bit
Scissors
plaster gauze

Gesso
Hot glue gun

Staple gun and stapels (optional)

Spray paint – black,.brown, gold, silver, copper (this is for a bronze or aluminum patina)

Instructional Resources:

Take 5 Sculpture series

Sculpture of Henry Moore, Jean Arp and

Barbara Hepworth

Vocabulary:

addition, armature, patina,

macquette and form

Instruction/Motivation:

1. video: “Henry Moore”
2. Internet: http://www.princetonol.com/groups/iad/lessons/middle/sculpt2.htm
3. Demonstration for each step
4. Examples by Bunki Kramer’s Students (Los Cerros Middle School Art , Danville, California)

Procedures:

1. Option #1: Use hammer and nail to create one or two holes in the block of wood. One hole may be centered, or two holes may be placed in the wood. (The distance apart doesn't seem to be critical.) Option #2: I had one responsible student assigned to my electric drill (I chose a student who had three years of Industrial Technology – plus made a big deal that it was my Father’s drill – and I needed a student who would treat the tool with respect – Told him he was honored to be able to use the drill. Of course – I had no problems). He drilled four holes in each block of wood using drill bit the size of the wire  – just at random. This gave students a choice of holes. If those holes didn’t work out – then the students brought them to me with to show where the hole needed to be and I drilled those right away.

2. Use wire cutters or heavy pliers to cut off the hook end of a wire coat hanger. Bend the wire to straighten it out a little before starting. (I used 1/8” wire. I purchased a big roll of wire from Lowe’s – I had more than enough for my class)

3. Insert the ends of the wire into one of the holes in the wood. Reinforce with hot glue. (Avoid having the wires poke through the bottom of the wood--this will make the sculpture a little unstable.) I found that it wasn’t necessary to glue the wire ends.

4. Bend and twist the wire to achieve an interesting shape. Bunki Kramer recommended using table legs to help bend. Insert the other end of wire into another hole. (Bring sculpture up for re-drilling if holes are not suitable)

5. Carefully pull the hose over the top of the wire, keeping the toe seam aligned with the wire. Continue to work the hose down over the wire and over the wooden block. Carefully adjust the wire inside, as desired.

6. When satisfied with the shape and "tautness" of the hose, clip off the excess hose from the bottom of the wooden block with scissors, and use a hot glue gun to tack into place. We used a staple gun to secure the wire under the block. The plaster gauze make the stocking stick.

7. Apply one layer of plaster gauze over nylon. Fold plaster gauze to the bottom of the block for a neat edge – this holds the nylon in place, too. Smooth with plaster of Paris if desired. (Note: many teachers simply gesso the nylon stocking and paint when dry. I like the more rigid –more permanent finish with the plaster)

8. The surface may be covered using gesso and allowed to dry (this made spraying easier for us).  Spray entire sculpture with brown and black paint. We sprayed ours outside – but a spray vented booth could also be used. Spray a light dusting of metallic paint over to give a bronze or aluminum patina. DO NOT make solid gold or silver. Henry Moore quote on patina – “allow the patina to accentuate the curves not hide”. I am wondering what a touch of Rub ‘n Buff would do for highlighting? You could also layer some green spray paint.

Closure:

Discuss elements and principles of design – line, movement and form

Review sculpture terms – addition, armature, patina, macquette and form

Evaluation:

Originality of form

Use of three-dimensional space – able to be viewed from all sides.

Craftsmanship in plaster addition

Patina – use of highlight and shadow

Fifth Grade adaptation from Mark Alexander:

I have done this project a few times, with fifth grade, and it is always a memorable success. Usually connect to positive/negative space, and Henry Moore, Brancusi, Barbara Hepworth and Jean Arp.

I've used two hangers in one base, but the forms tended to be more closed. I wonder if two hangers mounted a bit further apart might work better for more open and interesting negative space? 

I've let the gesso or the first coats of paint set, then trimmed the extra hosiery, letting the inevitable gesso gobs 'glue' in a bit of hose, which helps it stay tucked underneath the block.

For painting, I've had great success with metallic Jazz paints for a great cast metal look, but the best painting resulted from sponged and dry brushed patinas applied over a solid base color in analogous color schemes or complementary color schemes.

Adaptation from Andy DiConti:

Andy had his students create charcoal still life drawings of the sculptures while still white. Sculptures were arranged on boxes draped with fabric for some nice contrast of values and texture.  Some very stunning compositions came about.

Bones Variation:

1.       Watch segments of Henry Moore video. Make drawings from bones or pictures of bones.

2.       Bend Aluminum wire (1/8 inch) into interesting curves – insert ends into Styrofoam square bases (or wood bases) – Wrap with plaster gauze leaving some openings. Refer to pictures of bones – or real bones. It would have been easier to use some aluminum foil between wires – or wire screening to make shapes.  When I did this, we just used the gauze - then when it was stiff reshaped it and applied another layer.

3.      When dry - aluminum or bronze patina with spray paint.
Aluminum: Black - brown - light dusting of Silver/aluminum
Bronze: Black - brown - green (optional) - light dusting of gold
I did all of the black so the kids could move on to the patina part. We
sprayed them in groups outside. The whole project took one week (but not all kids did the drawings as they were finishing up previous projects).
 

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